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Financing Modular Homes:

My fist step in setting up the financing for my modular home was to shop rates for a 30 year fixed rate construction loan.  I soon found out that many lenders in my area did not know what a modular home was and confused them with manufactured homes.  (Borrowing money for modular homes is the same as borrowing money for a site built home in that the land and home are legally looked at as one unit.  That is not  the case with a manufactured home, since it can be moved and is considered property and not real estate.)

At this point I contacted the company that I was going to be purchasing the modular home from and they were able to recommend a lender near them that they worked with frequently.  In the end, I went with a national lender with offices in the St. Louis area.  Although this lender has over 100 branch offices in the St. Louis area, I was directed to deal with an office over 100 miles away because they had experience handling loans on modular homes.  This turned out to be a blessing in disguise because I then dealt with the Vice President of this office and he gave us wonderful service.

Additional Costs:

Prior to securing financing, I needed to know how much the whole project would cost.  After determining how much the home would cost, I needed to know the costs of the following: (these were my costs in 2006)               

  • Tree Removal Cost: clearing trees and stumps on lot (I did myself - one year later I still have one pile of stumps I am slowly cutting up and burning) - the cost of this varies widely depending upon building site
  • Surveying Cost: the 5 acre lot was surveyed for $1000 when purchased.  Layout of the lot prior to excavation (I staked out where house would go and had a surveying company stake the site with the setback stakes - called the "foundation spot") - $175
  • Drainage Installation Cost: French drains, culverts, shaping of yard, etc may be required to keep rain water runoff from settling around your home and leaking into your basement.  This cost varies with building site.
  • Water Hookup Cost: water line and hook up fees (if you have very far to go, the cost of copper can make this very expensive) - varies widely depending on distance the copper needs to be run - I ran a 3/4" K-copper line 450' up to the main water line on my road and the water company charged me $1,500 for hookup fees, labor, tap on fee and meter deposit.  In addition, the water company's contractor took my extra copper line which exceeded the length he needed.  This does not include $1200 in copper or the labor to install it 450'.
  • Gas Line Cost: varies upon the distance to be run
  • Foundation Excavation Cost: excavation associated with digging the basement and grading the lot - Approximately $3000 to dig a basement although I needed extensive excavation and a retaining wall in addition to this due to the building site.  At a total of $400 per hour for a track hoe and a highlift, this gets very expensive quickly.  Most building sites would not require this degree of excavation.
  • Foundation Cost: pouring the footer and foundation - $15,000 for 172' of 9' tall x 10" thick wall, pier pads for the jackposts and a 14' long frost wall and a concrete pump
  • Foundation Waterproofing Cost: foundation waterproofing and drain tile - $1,200
  • Rough Plumbing Cost: This is the drain system which is installed under the basement floor prior to doing the flat work in the basement.  I had them do the rough in for a bathroom in the basement also. - $1,200
  • Sump Prep Cost: gravel up to footer on top of rough plumbing - $200 - I shoveled in a load of gravel.
  • Flatwork Cost: flat work in the basement (the basement floor - not all contractors pour the foundation and do the flatwork because of the time delay between the two jobs) - $4,100
  • I-Beam Cost: I-beam down center of basement (using an 8" - 35# per foot wide flange beam allows you to use fewer jackposts in basement) - $1770 for an 8" - 35# a foot  wide flange beam 54' 8" long with in two pieces so that the seam is over a jackpost
  • Sill Plate Cost: sill plate materials and installation - I did this myself for the cost of the 2" x 8"s and sill gasket material.
  • Septic System Cost: septic system engineering and installation - $800 for engineering and $12,800 for an alternative system which has an aerator and a pump since the drain field is above the pump
  • Site Cleanup Cost: trash removal after house is set - I disposed of waste building materials myself.
  • Finish Plumbing Cost: hooking the house's plumbing to the plumbing in the basement floor - $2200
  • Hot Water Heater Cost: purchase and installation (cost is included in finish plumbing cost above)
  • Finish Electrical Cost: electrical work in basement (8 lights,12 outlets and 2 sets of two way switches) and wiring from the house's fuse box out to and including the stack for the electric company to hook into - $3,480
  • Furnace and Air Conditioner Cost: furnace and air conditioner and installation - included in the cost of my house
  • Kitchen Appliances and Installation Cost: other than hooking the gas to the stove, this was included in the cost of my house
  • Contingencies: add at least 15% for the unplanned things that arise such as interest costs accrued due to rain (excavation companies do not want to bring a 90 ton crane into a mud hole to lift a house, each half weighing 35,000 pounds!)

Once I had a handle on the total cost for the home, I was ready to begin securing financing.  Purchasing a modular home gives you a benefit in this area.  When the appraisal is done, a modular is appraised side by side with site build homes.  Since you will be paying about 25% less than a site built home, you come out ahead when the bankers start looking at how much equity you will have in the completed home versus the final value of the home.

You may be told by some modular home sales people that there is not too much to handling this project yourself.  Compared to a stick built home, these responsibilities are very small, but for someone working full time it can be challenging.  I work Monday through Thursday and this allowed me to meet with contractors on Fridays.  Without having a four day work week and the freedom to take time off work on short notice, I do not believe that I would have been able to manage this project.

I hope this information helps you in determining the cost of your project or reminds you of something that you had not planned on yet.  There is more than one thing on the list above that I had not planned on when starting this project.

One last note: In acting as the general contractor, I handled all the disbursements for the project.  If you handle your project in this manner, always be sure to get a lien waiver when paying a contractor.


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